Crossing the VA/TN State Line on the AT

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Appalachian Trail Hike – Damascus to VA-TN State Line toBackbone Rock Trail - 12/9/12 - 7.5 miles
Jim and I snuck away for a weekend in southwestVirginia.  Our cabin was situated halfwaybetween the towns of Damascus and Abingdon. The New River Rail Trail passed through the front yard and the AbingdonWinery was just down the road.  So muchto do!  We managed to squeeze inexploring the vibrant Farmer’s Market in Abingdon, a meal at a locavorerestaurant, and a bike ride to/from Abingdon on the Trail.  On Sunday morning we worked out a plan thatmade both of us happy:  while Jim biked aroute on the mountain back roads, I took a little hike southbound on theAppalachian Trail.
Jim dropped me off at Mercedes Street on the western edge ofDamascus where the AT leaves town and climbs steeply up to the ridge.  The day was very warm and my steps were lighton the long slow gentle switchbacks, no effort at all for climbing.  A month since my last hike – too long!
A glimpse of Damascus
After the initial up, the trail surprised me by leveling outto easy walking.  The trail was broad andmainte- nance was pristine, nothing to climb over or around, large blowdowns hadnice cuts in them that I could just step right through.  I passed a couple of inviting campsites.  The day was warm enough that a few hardyspiders were still at work.
Walking softly through the Virginia pines
Then the climbing began, no switchbacks now, and I crossedthe state line into Tennessee.
The trail changed immedi- ately from a very wide, immaculatetrail to – where is it?  Now I waslooking at a narrow, faint trace with blowdowns here and there.  Don’t get me wrong, I don’t need perfectionand I actually like blowdowns as a challenge. Why the drastic change in character? My guess is the Virginia maintainers live in Damascus, about 3.5 milesaway, while the Tennessee folks have a long haul to get to this section, eithercoming northbound up the AT or from the side trail I was shooting for, BackboneRock Trail, which I was getting ready to learn a lot about. 
After five miles on the AT I reached my departure point andstopped to eat a little something and contemplate what lay ahead.  So far I hadn’t met anyone on this hike, and Ienjoy hiking solo (as many of you know, it took me a while to develop thisview), but occasionally it’s good to have a second opinion.  At the nice sign for the Back Bone Rock TrailI was not discerning much of a trail.  Iknew I had to steeply descend from the ridge line.  A few dozen yards down, though, blue blazesbegan to appear and were abundant for the rest of the 3.5 miles.
I saw several sections of trees like this, broken off atabout 10 feet.



Did I say “steeply descend”? Make that “insanely steeply descend.” Long sections with no switchbacks at all, not many rocks to step down,but lots of dry leaves to slide on, and my thighs took a beating afteralready being traumatized from yesterday’s bike trip.  There was a lot of side-stepping going on asI negotiated the steepness, and I said a prayer of gratitude to not be climbingthis sucker.  But will I climb back up itsomeday to access the AT again?
Gee, I hope I recognize Backbone Rock – uh, yes, no problemthere.  It is an incredible rockformation, 75 feet tall, almost level on top, about three yards wide, andextends for a couple hundred yards with a pass cut through for SR 133(originally a railroad).  You can walkacross the top and from that viewpoint it looks like a spine.  I explored around the area, checked out thepicnic areas on both sides of the road, and settled in for Jim to pick me up.
Turns out Backbone Rock Recreation Area is larger than werealized.   Jim was waiting for me at the campground areaand I was waiting for him at the day use area for nearly an hour.  I finally got a clue from a posted informationmap and walked half a mile up the road and found him patiently waiting.  Home, James.
Have you ever noticed a tree standing nakedagainst the sky,
Howbeautiful it is?
Allits branches are outlined, and in its nakedness
Thereis a poem, there is a song.
Everyleaf is gone and it is waiting for the spring.
Whenthe spring comes, it again fills the tree with
Themusic of many leaves,
Whichin due season fall and are blown away.
Andthis is the way of life.

~ JidduKrishnamurti