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Solo Backpack in the Smokies – 4-11-12 – Mingus CreekTrail/Newton Bald Trail/Thomas Divide Trail/Deeplow Gap Trail – 13.7 Miles
Beginning with my 50^th I’ve spent every birthdayon a trail for a significant project, the Smokies 900 or the Mountains-to-SeaTrail.  What about this year?  It’s a Wednesday, so it would be a solo hike,but the SB6K project didn’t seem to click. What about…a solo backpack trip? Now that’s a phrase I never thought would apply to me.  Certainly a new threshold, a new line tocross.  I’ve hiked alone all day, sleptin frontcountry campgrounds alone all night, but never spent the night alone inthe deep dark woods.
What better place to try this new challenge than the GreatSmoky Mountains?  I’ve been meaning tohike those trails again anyway.  Poringover the map looking for possible overnight loop hikes, I got that tinglyfeeling that I love.  I chose afigure-eight type route and a backcountry campsite that should be empty on aweeknight.  I left a very detailed hikeplan with my husband and left home very early on Wednesday morning. 
The weather had been warmer than normal for a couple ofweeks but a cold front was coming through, predicting nighttime temps in thehigh 20’s.  The drive through the mountainswas very windy and I had a few thoughts about branches and trees falling ontents.  The Blue Ridge Parkway was closednear the entrance to the Smokies so I had to drive through the town of Cherokee,normally something I don’t mind but I wasn’t in the mood for it today.  I wanted to get on the trail.  I stopped at the Occonaluftee Visitor Centerand self-registered for my campsite.  AsI stuffed my form into the box I wondered just how often they check thosethings. 
I parked at the Mingus Mill parking lot and made a lastminute check of my gear – anything I can leave out or should add in?  My trail map split apart as I consulted itone more time.  Oh, well, I’ll have to relyon piecing it together.  A good thing Ihad studied it so much beforehand. 
Before I started on the trail I visited the slave cemetery ashort walk from the far corner of the parking lot.  There are six graves evidenced by roughuncarved sandstones.
Oops, forgot my new hiking poles – gotta go back.
Beginning of my adventure – Mingus Mill in the background
Mingus Creek Trail begins as a wide road bed.  Along the first mile there are remnants ofmany buildings from old homesteads and the CCC camp that operated there.  Flowers bloomed profusely along the path.
Some type of phlox
White erect trillium (distinguished by its dark center)
At 1.25 miles the trail split.  Mingus Creek Trail continued to theleft.  The unnamed trail to the rightleads .8 miles to another cemetery.  Oneof my interests in re-hiking the Smokies is to take more time investigating thecemeteries.  Some are harder to find thanothers.  I had planned to visit thisparticular one on my return hike the next day, but something told me to go soonerrather than later…so I did. 
Mingus Creek Cemetery seemed a bit forlorn, no flowers onany graves
Mrs. Polly Mathis, born 1888, died 1934


I backtracked to Mingus Creek Trail and began the longclimb.  In the first few minutes I metfour descending hikers, the only people I saw before returning to the parkinglot the next afternoon.  Now it was justme, myself and I. 
Toothwort
Showy orchis
The Mingus Creek Trail actually leaves Mingus Creek veryearly on and instead follows Madcap Branch up the mountainside, crossingseveral times (fun name, “Madcap”).  Atabout the three-mile mark the trail intersects with Deeplow Gap Trail, which Iwill return to this spot tomorrow.  Aftera brief quarter-mile respite of near level walking, Mingus Creek Trail resumesits climb – a total of six miles and 3,000 feet of ascent from thebeginning.  But going slow and steady,not trying to keep up with anyone, it felt great. 
At 5,080 feet Mingus Creek Trail meets Newton BaldTrail.  While some balds in the Smokiesare managed by the Park service to remain open, Newton is Bald no more, justanother wooded mountain top.  There is abig old chestnut tree trunk to rest on while you ponder life, though. 
A bear condo on Newton Bald Trail (see the hole near thetop?)  Dead trees that are still standingare called snags and are a very important part of a healthy forest ecosystem,providing home for creatures great and small. Don’t stick your head in one of these holes.
I continued on for .7 miles along Newton Bald Trail, passingthrough Campsite #52 sprawled across the trail. It looks like a great place to camp in good weather, but I wouldn’t wantto be huddled there in my tent on that ridge during a bad nighttimethunderstorm.  At the intersection withThomas Divide Trail I turned left, very much looking forward to somedownhill.  The walk down Thomas Dividewas just lovely with glimpses of the high ridgeline of the AT to theright.  (If I’d had my glasses I couldhave really seen the Clingmans Dome tower.) A nice breeze was blowing on the western side of Thomas Divide, while onthe eastern side I was more protected. It was a day for short sleeves and gloves.  As I strolled merrily along I hummed and sang“Agnus Dei”.  Alleluias sound so awesomein the outdoors!
At one point on Thomas Divide, as the trail rounded the sideof a mountain and curved onto the next one, I noticed that the first part wascompletely brown, still in winter mode, while the opposite facing side wascovered in mayapple foliage.  Imagine agiant letter “V” lying on the ground with one side brown and one sidegreen.  Neat, huh?
After 3.1 miles on Thomas Divide I turned right onto DeeplowGap Trail, still continuing downhill. Deeplow Gap Trail has multiple personalities: easy and clear, rocky andcovered with debris, and muddy and rutted from horse travel.  Big fun. It also had a stunning display of crested dwarf iris.
Squaw root – a bear’s favorite spring snack
Rue anemone
As I mentally counted up the miles for the day I began toget a little anxious to find my campsite for the night.  Usually the campsites are well marked but Ihave walked past a few, so I became intent on scanning the sides of the trailfor signs.  And…this one is prettyobvious.
So I was at camp by 6:00 p.m., plenty of time to drop mypack and make a quick .8-mile roundtrip to the end of Deeplow Gap where itmeets Indian Creek Trail.  Remember, ifyou are going to hike all of the Smokies 900 trails, pay attention to thoseloose ends. 
At my campsite, work to be done:  collect and treat water, boil some fordinner, add to dehydrated meal packet, make some hot tea. 
While all that is rehydrating and steeping, set uptent.  Campsite 51 only had two smalltent sites that I could find, so I choose the one farthest from the trail.  (The best thing about Smokies backcountrysites:  cable pulley systems to hang yourfood away from the critters.) 
Unfortunately, my meal was pretty terrible, too spicy forme, burning my lips that were already tenderized from the windy day.  But…I ate it all because I didn’t want tocarry it out the next day.  I opted notto make the chocolate pudding mix that I brought, didn’t think I could eat itall, but I had M&M’s to enjoy. 
After dinner, I read my little book in the surprisinglygradual fading of the light.  The windhad died down and a chill descended.  By8:00 p.m. I retired to my tent to get warm and settled in.  By 8:45 p.m. it was lights out, sister.  Hope I hear some hooty-owls tonight.
Birthdays are good for you.  Statistics show that thepeople who have the most live the longest.  ~Larry Lorenzoni