1 Ekim 2012 Pazartesi

Big Cat Scratch

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Smokies SB6K Backpack – Day One – 6/8/12 – Pretty Hollow GapTrail/Palmer Creek Trail/Balsam Mountain Trail – 12.8 Miles
The most intimidating part of the SB6K challenge, at leastfor me, is 7 peaks that rise high in the Great Smoky Mountains.  Why so daunting?  After all, I’ve hiked all those trails, evensummited 5 of the total 12 peaks there (Clingman’s Dome, Mt. Collins, Mt.LeConte, Mt. Kephart, even Mt. Sequoyah) during my Smokies 900 year. 
Ah, but the remaining 7 peaks are off-trail, you see, andnot reasonably in reach for me as dayhikes. Bagging these peaks requires a multi-day backpack trip, navigationalskills, a thick skin and a good attitude. So who you gonna call?  Jeff.  I proposed a weekend to hit all 7 peaks andstill get home on Sunday night. He said okay because he is applying forsainthood. 
The plan:  DAY 1 -Hike from Cataloochee Valley to Laurel Gap Shelter, summit nearby BigCataloochee Mountain, stay at Laurel Gap. DAY 2 – Hike via Balsam Mountain Trail to Tri-Corner Knob Shelter,summit Luftee Knob, Mark’s Knob and Mt. Yonaguska along the way, stay atTri-Corner.  DAY 3 – Backtrack on the ATa little to summit Mt. Chapman, then go north on the AT to summit Mt. Guyot andOld Black, then hike down Snake Den Ridge to Cosby exit.
Oddly enough, after hearing the trip description (3 days ofbushwhacking in June, 2 nights in shelters), no one else wanted to joinus. 
After much time spent planning routes with expensive shuttlecompanies, two good friends from the Bergs stepped in to help us out.  Daniel and Mike planned a base campingweekend in the Cosby area on the Tennessee side of the Park, allowing Daniel todrop Jeff and me at the beginning of our route in the Cataloochee area on theNC side.   Daniel drove my car to Cosby, where he andMike used it for their own hiking shuttles and then placed it in the Cosbyhiker parking lot for our exit on Sunday. Genius plan that worked very well for everyone. 
The weather forecast started out to be great, thendeteriorated through the week.  At thetrailhead we were re-editing our packs in preparation for rain.  Also, even though I had made reservations forthe shelters, we each carried a backpacking tent in case the shelters were toofull for comfort or had annoying occupants (hey, it happens.)   We started off with a pleasant stroll on Pretty Hollow Gap Trail,catching up on recent adventures and checking out the wildflowers.  Here’s a new one:  stinkhorn. Yes, I touched it.  It feels justlike it appears, a cold, gelatinous, dead finger.  BIG YUCK.
After .8 miles we turned left onto Palmer Creek Trail andbegan a long, steady climb, 1,500 feet in a little over 3 miles.  Jeff gave me the details of his newest carpurchase and I tried to stay attentive as I huffed and puffed.  It takes me a while to get into an uphillrhythm, the most important consideration being not to go too fast.  Once I’ve hit the right stride, I can plodalong for miles. 
Crossing Lost Bottom Creek
Near the confluence of Lost Bottom and Palmer Creeks
Lots of summer blooms up close on Palmer Creek Trail, including galax – I proclaim this the “flower of the weekend”
Sundrops
Many azaleas in intense shades of coral, salmon and deep pink
Clamshell- like fungi on this tree as big as my two handstogether
Bowman’s root
I reached the end of Palmer Creek Trail at Balsam MountainRoad ahead of Jeff (he went off to bag a little peak some- where).  I really needed a rest on thisextraordinarily comfy rock.
Balsam Mountain road is a one-way gravel road that begins atthe end of paved Heintooga Ridge Road, a side road off of the Blue RidgeParkway.  It is closed in the winter, butcheck it out sometime for a thrill ride through the backcountry.  Several Smokies trails are accessed from thisroad.  We walked about half a mile on thegravel to the beginning of Balsam Mountain Trail.  Here we saw a piece of paper on the ground thatsaid something about Laurel Gap Shelter being closed, but it looked old andtorn and we shrugged as we passed it. But we made note of a Park Service truck parked there. 
Balsam Mountain Trail is lovely, abundant ferns lining theedges and more azaleas overhead.   Oursteady climb continued, adding another 1,000 feet.  Today was the biggest elevation gain of the tripand we would spend the rest of our weekend gallivanting on the highest trailsin the Smokies.
After 2.3 more miles, at the intersection of Balsam Mountainand Beech Gap Trail we saw a very new looking sign:


Well, this was more than an inconvenience, this could be aproblem.  I made our reservations weeksago.  It was too late in the day and wewere too far away from any kind of vehicle to turn back.  No other choice but to continue the remaining2 miles to the shelter and see what’s what.
And…there was indeed a trail crew settled in with a veryelaborate setup.  In addition to overtakingthe shelter itself, they had a shower tent, a cook tent, several enormouscoolers, a gas grill, and an electrified bear fence to keep it all safe.  There were also several tents spread around.  We never asked, but I’m sure it was allbrought in via horses. 
I told the young crew chief, Eric, that I had reservations.  He questioned me a bit rudely, like where wasmy paperwork and who had I talked to?  Ididn’t back down, said again that I had reservations, and obviously there hadbeen a mixup but that we had to stay there. He wanted to know how many nights (one) and where we were headed thenext day.  When I told him our plans andthat we were hiking the SB6K’s, that Jeff had hiked them all and that I wasextensively familiar with the Smokies, good old Eric changed his tuneconsiderably.  He pointed out the path tothe spring for water, then escorted us to an area that he would permit us tocamp – which turned out to be the toilet area. No flat spots, and Jeff and I ended up setting our tents up on afaint path, a ditch, really.  Jeff was putout by the treatment we got and noted that it was all well and good to be niceif we were experienced backpackers, but if we were inexperienced it would beeven more important to be nice and helpful because there were no other optionsthan to stay there.  (note: I reportedthe issue to the Park office when I got back home.)
At the spring we filled up extra containers with water andthen left the shelter area to carry out our real purpose of the day – summitingBig Cataloochee.  And remember, we hadalready backpacked nearly 10 miles uphill.
Continuing a short distance on Balsam Mountain Trail to thenext intersection, we turned right onto Mount Sterling Trail.  Now, Jeff is the man with the GPS track tothe summit, and as I followed him I became a little nervous because the woodslooked impenetrable on either side of the trail.  Oh ye of little faith!  Jeff turned left off of the trail and walkedinto the thick of the forest and I followed, determined to keep him in sight. 
Bushwhacking:  Slowlystomping through thick underbrush, stepping up over fallen tree trunks and downinto holes you can’t see, duck walking under branches, sliding on moss,stooping and twisting sideways to squeeze in between trees.  Fallen trees lay every which way.  Everything in the forest is rotting everyefficiently, crumbling and crunching and squishing underfoot.  There is no time to worry about what youmight be stepping on or what might be scurrying or slithering away just as yourfoot comes down (you can’t see it anyway). If that stuff bothers you, you’re in some trouble.
So we bushwhacked a half-mile steeply uphill at a snail’space through thigh-high ferns and head-high blackberry briars.  This was beyond even my experience on theRichland/Reinhart hike (that was in winter). Now we were in full summer undergrowth. Areas of balsam trees were better because there was very littleundergrowth, but watch out for the small, bare lower branches which I calledstubs – they can really scratch or poke an eyeball.  I got some impressive scrapes on my legs andarms, bloodied up in the first five minutes. (One scar remains – I like to call it my Big Cat scratch.)  We left our packs back on the trail and Icarried my hiking poles out of habit, but they were a hindrance and I didn’tuse them off-trail for the remaining peaks.  
People who came before us had left flag tape intermit- tently,but not in any organized manner that I could follow, so I worked hard to staynear Jeff.  The summit of Big Cataloocheeis designated by a tree with a bunch of flags. My first peak bagged!
You find some awesome stuff when you venture deep into thewoods.

We bush- whacked back down trying to go a slightly differentway (i.e. longer), but ended up coming out at the same spot. I was never so glad to see a trail in my life.  And just how was I going to do this 6 moretimes?
Back at Laurel Gap Shelter the hour was getting late.  The off-trail hike had taken more than two hours.  Wehustled to treat more water for the next day, cooked and ate supper sitting underneaththe bear cable hangers.  Afterwards Iwent to have a little chat with the trail crew. (Eric the leader had retired to his tent.)  The other fellows were very nice, said thetrail work had been scheduled for months and someone in the backpackreservation office obviously messed up. They described the work they were doing to repair Gunter Fork Trail,which had been closed for nearly a year due to landslides.  They said they would be up and out to work thenext morning by 7:00 a.m.
Daylight was fading and the air was chilling.  I crawled into my tent, too exhausted tomove, a good thing because I was nestled in a ditch. 
Ifyou pick 'em up, O Lord, I'll put 'em down.  ~Author Unknown, "Prayerof the Tired Walker"

Three More, Let's Make It Four

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Smokies SB6K Backpack – Day Two – 6/9/12 – BalsamMountain/ Appalachian Trail/Off-Trail – 12 Miles
I got up once during the night for a nature call andrealized anew what a bad spot my tent was in. Getting out of the door required crawling uphill, and when I stood up inthe pitch dark I could not get my balance on the slope.  Arms pinwheeling, I pitched forward into atree branch about neck high, which bounced me backward onto my butt, and then Irolled downhill back onto my tent.  Thankgoodness I didn’t knock it down completely, it just sagged a little (okay, alot).  After peeing, I crawled back inand vowed to die there rather than get up again in the dark. 
The trail crew guys were up early making noise, which neverbothers me – I enjoy lying in my sleeping bag while other people are up.  They left by 7:30 a.m. and I carefullycrawled uphill out of my tent again.  Hadto wake Jeff up.  We packed our stuff,ate a little something, and then explored the crew’s base of operations.  We had a fun Goldilocks moment sittingin their chairs in the shelter – tee hee.
Packs on our backs and ready for three more SB6K’s, Jeff wasin front of me as we headed back to Balsam Mountain Trail.  As Jeff stepped past, a brownish four-footsnake popped out from underneath the shelter and began its slinky sidewaysapproach down the path straight toward me. I began to yell, “Hey, hey, hey!” which to me meant “Snake, yikes, saveme!” and to Jeff meant absolutely nothing because he didn’t turn around(perhaps he thought I was singing?)  Istopped on the path and the snake kept coming, until I stepped off to the rightand it slithered off to the left.  Ididn’t make note of its markings because I was fascinated by its graceful glide. 
In the first half-mile we caught up with the trail crew,taking a quick break from their morning’s work improving Balsam Mountain Trail.  With hazel hoes and rakes theyhad cut deeper into the bank and widened the trail.  Ours were the first hiker footsteps on thisnew improvement.
Balsam Mountain Trail is one of the best trails in the parkthat few people ever see.  From LaurelGap the trail takes a distinct left turn and runs along the ridge of BalsamMountain, acting as the horizontal bar of the letter “H” connecting the MountSterling ridge on one side and the AT ridge on the other.  It’s an easy trail to walk on, not muchchange in elevation, with glimpses into the valleys on either side.  The trail character alternates betweenhardwoods and alpine forest, rocks and roots and lush green ferns.
Peaking through (notice the dark cloud looming above?)
Balsam Mountain Trail #1
Balsam Mountain Trail #2
Balsam Mountain Trail #3
Balsam Mountain Trail #4
Bear print – we saw several of these, always headed in theopposite direction – I guess Mr. Bear was here yesterday?
Dropping our packs to climb Luftee Knob


Although not a picnic, bush- whacking up to the summit ofLuftee Knob was not as difficult as Big Cataloochee yesterday.  In retrospect, Big Cat was an excellent firstexperience to measure the other summits against.  I didn’t like it, I was exhausted by it, butI survived it and felt that elation of accomplishment.  I continually asked Jeff for a ranking of allthe other summits and a comparison to Big Cat. Why?  I was going to do them nomatter what.  But with any endeavor thechallenge is mostly mental, and it helped me to get psyched (or resigned) towhatever was coming up.  Luftee Knob wasa .6-mile round trip, less steep but just as gnarly with lush undergrowth anddowned tree obstacles.   There wasnothing to indicate the summit other than Jeff’s GPS said so. 
A couple of miles further along Balsam Mountain Trail wereached our next challenge, two summits originating from the same location onthe trail, one to the right and the other to the left.  First, Mt. Yonaguska, which Jeff had notsummited. (Those funny SB6K guidelines say that either Mt. Yonaguska orTricorner Knob can count because they are the same height and are consideredspurs of each other – Jeff has bagged Tricorner Knob.)  So up we went, the shortest trip yet at .25miles each way and Jeff creating a GPS track, to this scenic spot on top of Mt.Yonaguska.
(And how do you pronounce that?  Yon-uh-GOO-skuh.  Say it out loud now.  Nobody is listening.)
Coming back down, Jeff says “Follow me.”
And I’m trying.



A little rest and something to eat while Jeff explains ournext summit to Mark’s Knob.  This is 1.1miles one way, which I equate to multiple hours based on what we’ve experiencedso far.  But…this used to be a maintainedtrail (decommissioned how many years ago?) going around Mt. Hardison and Mark's Knob and over to Hyatt Ridge Trail (which now dead ends at Campsite 44) and it’s relatively level, not muchelevation gain until the final push, and discernible where trail builders cutthe trail out of the mountainside and leveled it (just like the trail crew wasdoing when we passed them this morning – go back and look at that photo).  AND several people had put up flagging tapethe whole way.  I was thrilled. 
Summit of Mark’s Knob
New growth on balsam branches
One rather significant detail – unmain- tained means crews no longer clearthe deadfall on the trail.  We were constantly stepping over, duckingunder or climbing over trees of all sizes. On the return leg we counted about 350 trees across the trail.  Yes, that means that out-and-back, 2.2 miles,we had over 700 trees to negotiate around.  Yetthis was my favorite summit because of little elevation gain and a marked pathso I could find my own way. 
On the return, Jeff took the time to also summit Mt.Hardison (the “trail” skirted around the summit), adding to his long list ofbagged peaks and making his time a little more worthwhile.  He still arrived back at our meeting point onBalsam Mountain Trail shortly after I did; he can move much faster when I’m notwhining along behind. 
And hey, look, it’s still early.  Maybe we can make one more peak today?  Mt. Chapman is beckoning.
One more mile and we reached the end of Balsam MountainTrail and our home for the night, Tricorner Knob Shelter.  We’ve stayed here before, know that theshelter sits on a very narrow ledge and there isn’t much room to pitch tents ifthe shelter scene is less than fun.  As wewalked down to the shelter Jeff pointed out a camping spot to the right of thetrail, sitting high up on the ridge. Perhaps we’ll end up there?  Butlet’s see what’s going on at the shelter first.
Five backpackers were sprawled out in the shelter,20-somethings from Texas who were hiking the Smokies section of the AT.  Their first question was did I bring anybeer?  (I didn’t even need to look atJeff for his opinion.)  We chatted withthe young’uns for a few minutes, didn’t get any warm and fuzzy feelings, andthen we left to conquer Mt. Chapman. 
Mt. Chapman is an SB6K mountain about a mile south ofTricorner Knob on the AT.  Then it’s ashort bushwhack (.2 miles one way) but quite steep.  I was running out of gas by now and even alittle elevation had me breathing hard. 
Dead balsam on Mt. Chapman - unusual bleached effect
Yellow bead lilies were so numerous we couldn’t avoidwalking on them (aka blue bead lilies when the blooms fade and it bears dark bluefruit).
View of Mt. Guyot – shuddering chills and ominous music –one of tomorrow’s goals and the worst one of all (and those clouds hovered all day but no rain)
Summit of Mt. Chapman – four SB6K’s in one day! 


On the way back to Tricorner Knob Shelter, we discussed our sleeping options.  TheTexas folks didn’t have reservations, so it was possible that the shelter couldget a lot more crowded.  As we talked, wecame up behind a young couple with loaded backpacks who was also headed forTricorner (without reservations). They wondered what we were doing, hiking around up on the AT without anygear at all (we had left everything at the shelter for this short sidetrip). 
That settled it for Jeff – he was going to check out the littlecampsite and relocate.  Iwasn’t thrilled because rain was on the way and I did not want to take down awet tent in the morning.  But it seemed amore peaceful option than staying in the shelter.
Again…oh ye of little faith! The five Texans had discovered the campsite and moved in themselves! 
If we’d had a webcam set up, the next few hours would show the weary young couple from the AT arriving andspreading out their gear, several more hikers showing up, investigating thelayout, choosing hidden spots in the woods behind the latrines to hang hammocksor set up tents, and various forms of food prep, including one guy who didn’tlike to carry a stove (minimalist) but was not shy about asking for any hotwater anyone had left over (yes, I let him use my stove).  One of the Texas girls came back to get herhiking stick, which was leaning against the wall and I had mistaken for a random stick and had hung my sportsbra on to dry (sorry about that). 
We ended up having a very pleasant evening, just Jeff andme and the backpacking couple staying in the shelter, talking about past hikes and future plans.  A goosebumpy feeling, the farthest point away from a road in all of the Smokies, sitting high up on a mountain as the light faded.  Slept well. 
"Keep close to nature's heart, yourself; and break clearaway, once in a while, and climb a mountain or spend a week in the woods. Washyour spirit clean."  ~John Muir  












Wouldn't Take Nothin' For My Journey Now

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Smokies SB6K Backpack Trip – Day 3 – 6/10/12 – AT/Snake DenRidge Trail – 13.1 Miles
Through the night I dozed and listened, quiet except for a raucouschorus of frogs in the wee hours.  Rainwas predicted the day before but it avoided us. According to Jeff, rain was again predicted for today beginning at 7:00a.m.  But rain or shine, this was ourlast day and I could handle whatever came. By 7:00 a.m. we were packing up and still dry. 
Raindrops began to whisper on the shelter roof at 7:30a.m.  Ah well…
Suited up for a wet day – two SB6K summits to go. 
Despite the clouds, we still had a view and some rhodosblooming on the AT
An old granddaddy rhodo- dendron bush covered in glowing lichen


From time to time I am asked which trail in the Great SmokyMountains is my favorite, and my standard answer is that I have some favoritedays hiking there due to a combination of the trail, the weather, my fellow hikers(or solo), and the events on that hike.  But…it’shard to downplay the uniqueness of the Appalachian Trail following theridgeline of the Smokies.  Every step ofit is infused with magic if you open yourself up.   NorthCarolina drops down over one shoulder and Tennessee drops down over the other.  Impressions of tens (hundreds?) of thousandsof footsteps are underneath your feet, of humans on a soul-searching walk oranimals looking for lunch.  The2-by-6-inch white rectangles painted on the trees are the same as the ones inMaryland and in Maine.  So whether thesun is shining or the rain is dripping, the AT through the Smokies is a specialplace to be. 
Rain gear doesn’t really keep you dry when it’s above 50degrees, because you sweat inside with the exertion of hiking.  But it makes you think you’re stayingdry.  And today it served anotherpurpose:  protecting us from morescratches and scrapes during our bushwhacking. The rain tapered off but the woods were saturated as we began ournext-to-last and most difficult SB6K summit, Mt. Guyot on the AT.  Jeff’s memory of Mt. Guyot was accurate:  a terrible, awful, no-good, very badbushwhack.  The half-mile slog uphill tookus a solid hour.  Even with Jeff’s GPStrack, we tried and abandoned a couple of routes near the summit because of additionaldeadfall since his last visit.  Theblackberry briars grew way overhead and we spent a lot of time stomping a paththrough (which helped a lot on the return, only a half hour). 
Slimy snails were every- where, a bumper crop, and they seemedto bother me much more than the thought of gigantic rattle- snakes.  Grabbing onto tree trunks and branches, a fewtimes I squished a little fellow and shrieked, doing a little dance of disgustas I wiped my hand on my rain pants. YUCK.
The summit of Mt. Guyot at last.  Yes, this is worth it.

The final summit of Old Black was also difficult but muchshorter, a .4-mile roundtrip.  A bitanti- climactic after Mt. Guyot, but a triumph nevertheless.  Now all we had to do was walk to my car –about two miles on the AT and then 5 miles down Snake Den Ridge Trail.  Downhill sounded great, but I knew that by trail’send my thighs would be shaking and my knees would be aching.  But hey, I just finished bagging sevenoff-trail peaks in the Smokies!  I feltgreat. 
Continuing northbound on the AT past Old Black, we kept oureyes peeled for the remains of an F-4 Phantom fighter plane that crashed intothe ridge near Inadu Knob in 1984. Fragments from the wreck are scattered around the area close to the ATintersection with Snake Den Ridge Trail. I had not seen this the last time I was here.  I don’t know how I missed it then, but it isvery obvious just off the trail to the right. Jeff guessed that some of the pieces had been collected together at thisspot.
We turned left onto Snake Den Ridge Trail and began our longdescent.  At the next intersection wesplit up.  Jeff turned onto Maddron BaldTrail so he could get in some new miles and also check out the Albright Grove Loop,a .7-mile side trail through rare old growth hardwood forest.  I continued on down Snake Den Ridge.
The smoky view from Snake Den Ridge Trail
Galax blooms lining the trail
Something big was digging around here not long ago
Can never have too many photos of rhodo- dendron up close
Crossing Inadu Creek on Snake Den Ridge Trail, I met afellow here who had backpacked in overnight carrying a huge camera and tripod
Alternate-leaved dogwood
Fun fungi

A half-mile from the end of Snake Den Ridge Trail is theWilliamson Cemetery.  Most of the graves datefrom the early 1900’s, but noteworthy is a marker dated 1982 for Ella V.Costner, a World War II POW and Poet Laureate of the Smokies. 
The day was not over when I arrived at the trailhead.  I walked through the Cosby Campground to thehiker parking area and saw my precious Honda Pilot waiting where Daniel andMike had left it, along with a note of their whereabouts today.  Turns out they were walking the same trail asJeff (Maddron Bald) but we missed them by a couple of hours.  I changed clothes, cleaned up a little, andwent in search of the Maddron Bald trailhead, going completely on memoryseveral years old.  Luckily I recognizedroad names and landmarks.  After a shortwait, Jeff stumbled up with tired, sore feet and was ready to go home.  Me too.
I knew that this weekend would be hard, hard work…and itwas.  Yet for all that physical effortand discomfort, the feeling of being on a trail was as uplifting and transformativeas always.  I don’t know if I will evergo bushwhacking again without a specific challenge goal, but I hope I can keephiking the trails forever.
Thanks, Jeff.
Wouldn’t take nothin' for myjourney now.  ~Jimmie Davis

30 Eylül 2012 Pazar

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